First time to Paris and want some tips on how to get around, what money you’ll need, which are the best museums if you want to beat the crowds and where to eat like a local? Then this guide is for you.
Getting around
The Metro is the easiest way around the city. A lot of the guide books suggest passes which allow unlimited travel but these don’t tend to be good value even if you are moving around a bit. A better option is to buy a group of single use tickets from any of the machines at the stations which allow travel around the main part of the city. Tickets can be bought using credit cards and you can buy 1-10 (they get cheaper the more you purchase).
Be prepared that trains can be extremely crowded even outside peak hours. In the main the stations are very easy to navigate (no matter where you are staying or where you are heading to it’s likely you’ll need to change lines). The one exception to this probably Garde de Norde which, because of the size can be a little confusing.
Each station has a number of exits so check in advance which one you need before leaving. Small metro maps are available at each station, however, to make it easier before leaving the hotel use google maps to plan out the route and then take a screen shot.
Money
I arrived in Paris with 10 Euro in cash as I’d used all the Euro I’d bought with me paying for a hotel in Croatia which only took cash. I survived quite easily with this amount of cash as pretty much everywhere takes credit cards. The only things you are likely to need cash for as a tourist are public toilets and food carts which are dotted around the city selling crepes and gelato.
If you do need to withdraw cash, like any major city ATMs are almost everywhere.
Language
Most people I encountered spoke English and if not it’s possible to get by with a bit of imagination and sign language but it does help to learn a basic words.
Museums
You can buy a museum pass. However, it’s not likely to be good value unless you plan on visiting more than 2 museums a day (which is likely to be too much for most people). They are touted as being a great way of avoiding the queues but keep in mind that even if you order online you will still have to queue up at the first place you visit to pick up the pass or order sufficiently far in advance (and pay postage) to have it posted to you.
The Louvre
The Lourve is of course amazing and a must do in any visit to Paris. There are two entrances, one near the pyramid and one closer to where you come out of the metro station. Lonely Planet suggested using the one near the metro as lines are shorter, but on the day I visited at 10.30am the other queue was shorter.
The only real queue / wait is for the security check. Once inside tickets can be purchased using machines and the queues for these were very short. It gets busier as the day goes on so it pays to get there early.
Be prepared that no matter when you go it will be crowded, especially around the most popular exhibits and that tourists will engage in behaviour that your’e (thankfully) unlikely to see elsewhere. Selfie sticks have been banned but people will still get quite pushy in order to get that selfie / instagramable shot.
You could probably spend days in there looking at all the exhibits but by the end of 2-3 hours are likely be suffering from sensory overload and sick of the crowds so plan for a half day visit. Grab a map a the information counter after you’ve bought your ticket and plan what you’d like to see.
Your ticket is valid all day so if you go late morning you can leave the museum at lunchtime and grab some lunch outside to give yourself a break.
A good spot is Tuileries Garden. There are plenty of places to sit and eat and the walk in the sculpture garden is a good way to relax before heading back to the museum.
Musee d’Orsay
Another museum that you shouldn’t miss is the Musee d’Orsay which is in a former railway station. I’ll go out on a limb and say I preferred it to the Louvre. It’s easier to negotiate as it’s much smaller and while it’s crowded the visitors seem much more civilised than what you see at the Lourve. Obviously it doesn’t have the as many exhibits as the Louvre but it does have a large sculpture collection and some very famous paintings including those by Renout and Monet.
Don’t miss the view of Paris through the railway clock.
Musee Rodin and Notre Dame
The Musee Rodin is also worth a visit. You can buy a combined pass for this and the Musee d’Orsay at either venue. It is focused on the sculptures of Auguste Rodin and includes displays in the peaceful gardens as well as a restored hotel.
The two museums are a 15 minute walk from each other so it’s easy to see both in a morning or afternoon. Notre Dame is also a few stations away and doesn’t require a long visit so it’s a good idea to combine the three.
Taking a break
I went to the d’Orsay early in the morning and then to the Rodin, however, if I was doing it again I’d probably go to Notre Dame, catch the metro to Rodin then walk to d’Orsay simply because there were 2 restaurants on the higher floors of the d’Orsay which I would have liked to try.
The decor in both is very modern and not what you’d expect from a museum. If you only feel like something light there is also a casual counter service café on the ground floor. There aren’t any food venues near the Rodin but there are plenty of restaurants in the streets nearby.
Other tourist sights
Eiffel Tower
If you plan on going up in the elevator to the Eiffel Tower book at least a few days in advance. I tried to book the day before and only unpopular times of the day (eg 10pm) were left available.
Arch de Triomphe
It wouldn’t be a visit to Paris without seeing (and taking a photo of) the Arch de Triomphe. It is well worth the 386 step climb to the terrace just to see the cars along the Champs-Elysees. There are also great view of the Eiffel Tower so try to time your visit so you will be there on either the hour or ½ hour to see it lit up.
There is a passageway from the metro station to the tower entrance so you don’t have to attempt to negotiate the (extremely busy) roundabout. The first part of the climb can seem a little daunting as it’s a spiral staircase (which if you are like me and scared of heights is not great), but there are places to stop and catch your breath. Half way up there is also a large area with displays, a souvenir counter and bathrooms. From there up it’s a normal (wider) staircase.
Arch de Defense
For a view of the modern part of Paris take the metro to the Arch de Defense. It’s worth it just for the view of the Arch alone. If you feel like doing some shopping while in Paris there is a major shopping centre as you come out of the Metro which has all the chain brands and plenty of places to eat ranging from food court choices to restaurants.
There is also a large supermarket and another large store which sells everything from washing machines and fridges to handbags and groceries. If you want to see where Parisians shop this is the place to be.
It’s where the Parisians who work in the office towers surrounding it go for lunch (and sit outside on the steps leading to the Arch) so it makes for great people watching.
However the highlight is the trip to the top of the Arch (15Euro) which seems to be the best kept secret in Paris. Despite the amazing views there were only about 5 people up there when I went (as opposed to the hundreds who were on the Arch de Triomphe.
There is also an exhibition space at the top which on the day I went had am incredible photography exhibition.
There was also a sign on the terrace indicating they do after work drinks on the terrace after 5pm at which time the cost of the lift drops to 5Euro. If I’d known about this sooner I definitely would have come to watch the sunset there.
Take the time to get lost
No matter what else you do in Paris take the time to wander around (and get lost in) the streets. The city is full of beautiful historic buildings and away from the crowds the city is very peaceful. It also gives you an insight into how Parisians actually live.
Food
Kitchens (and apartments in general) tend to be quite small in Paris. If you rent an apartment is doesn’t come with a kitchen just a tap and a connection for the gas and so it’s up to the tenant to install anything they want.
This when combined with the French view that you should specialise in something
and become good at it (for example at a baker one person will only make bread and another only pastries), means that they very rarely cook at home and if they do it’s very simple so eating out is a national pastime.
It also means that a Parisian will never buy their pastry and coffee from the same place, as someone who is a good baker should not be expected to know how to make coffee and vice versa.
Eating Out
There are a myriad of restaurants in Paris and where you choose to eat out probably depends on where you are staying and / or where you happen to be come meal time so it’s probably not worth giving you a list of places to try.
However, there were two stand out places for me that I’d recommend if you can get there. The first was Tomy and Co which I hesitate to confess was recommended by the Lonely Planet 2018 Paris Guide but I seem to be the only person who’s read it because I was the only non local there (the fact that everyone else was in business suits was somewhat of a giveaway). The duck with figs was wonderful.
http://www.tomygousset.com/tomy-and-co
The other was a tiny hole in the wall wine bar called Wine Therapy (nearest metro station Cadet). It has an extensive wine collection ad the owner was extremely friendly and knowledgeable about the wine. Leave yourself in his hands to select some wine for you and team it with the meat and cheese plate which comes with (of course) a fresh baguette which he will pop out the kitchen to put together for you.
https://www.wine-therapy.fr/en/
One other thing which I regret not reading about until my last day was Bustronode. This is a glassed in bus that drives around the city past the major sights while serving a 4 course lunch or 6 course dinner. It gets great reviews from people who’ve done it.
Breakfast
Despite what you read, according to locals that I spoke to Parisians don’t actually start every day with something as decadent as a croissant, they are more likely to eat cereal or some grapefruit. This was borne out by the fact that the only people I saw eating croissants were obvious tourists. But they are so different (much better) than at home you have to try one at least once.
Lunch
If you don’t want something for lunch that is going to weigh you down during the afternoon’s sightseeing do like the locals and grab a ham and cheese baguette and eat it outdoors in the nearest park.
Cooking like a local
I did do a cooking class with La Cuisine Paris. I did the evening class which went from 4-8pm and included a trip to local stores to buy cheese, bread and other provisions, a cooking demonstration / lesson and dinner with wine.
The food is pretty simple so don’t expect to become a Masterchef after but you might pick up some short cuts for example we learnt how to make a very tasty pear and cream dessert with minimal preparation and only a few ingredients and also a few tips to make cooking easier.
You will also learn about the laws surrounding the naming of shops (eg it cannot be called a bakery unless all of the bread is made on site and is fresh and never frozen) and how to recognise master craftsmen. It’s also a great way to meet local producers and share cooking, a meal and some drinks with fellow travellers who can share tips on what to see and do in Paris. At the end of the class you get recipes and a map with recommended places to buy local produce to take home.
Shopping
Galleries Lafayette
Even if you aren’t that keen on shopping a trip to Galleries Lafayette is worth it to see the stained glass roof. There are a number of branches of the stores, make sure you head to the one on Housman as this is the most grand. And don’t make the mistake I did in heading to the smaller store just around the corner next to Sephora (which is likely to be the first one you see when you come out of the metro) as this is solely geared at Chinese tourists.
Make sure you head to the terrace on the roof for great views across Paris.
There is a separate gourmet store on the same street which has an amazing array of food and wine (and of course champagne) and is a great place to pick up gourmet gifts.
Prices
Even after the VAT refund (see below) the prices of Parisian brand cosmetics such as Lancôme and Clarins wasn’t that much cheaper than home once you take into account the exchange rate. If you do want to buy cosmetics it’s probably better to do it at the airport where all the major brands can be bought duty free (keep in mind the 100ml limit on liquids if you’ve got an onward connecting flight). The savings on other items such as handbags seems to be much higher.
VAT Refunds
If you spend more than 175 Euro in any shop during the same day you can obtain a (partial) refund of the 14% VAT. Just look for the signs in stores that say tax refund. If you elect to receive a refund in cash at the store you will receive 10%, if you are happy to wait and have the refund processed to your credit card in a few weeks you’ll receive 12%.
Either way you need to have your form processed at the airport before you depart. You will receive a form with a barcode on it from the store. Avoid the (hideously long) queues at the Travelex refund counters at the airport and head instead to a PABLO kiosk where you simply scan the form.
As long as the screen indicates the paperwork has been processed you don’t need to post the actual form (you can however still do so at the boxes near the refund counters). There is a list of the PABLO kiosks at each of the terminals at Charles de Gaulle and Orly airports at the bottom of this page:
https://www.parisaeroport.fr/en/passengers/flight-preparation/currency-purchases-customs/tax-refund
Leaving the country
It takes much longer to get through the airport than what you’d be used to if you travel in Australia. Even with priority check in which enabled me to skip the (very long) check-in queues it took me close on an hour to get through security and customs so leave yourself plenty of time.