First time to Paris and want some tips on how to get around, what money you’ll need, which are the best museums if you want to beat the crowds and where to eat like a local? Then this guide is for you.

Getting around

The Metro is the easiest way around the city.  A lot of the guide books suggest passes which allow unlimited travel but these don’t tend to be good value even if you are moving around a bit. A better option is to buy a group of single use tickets from any of the machines at the stations which allow travel around the main part of the city.  Tickets can be bought using credit cards and you can buy 1-10 (they get cheaper the more you purchase). 

Be prepared that trains can be extremely crowded even outside peak hours.  In the main the stations are very easy to navigate (no matter where you are staying or where you are heading to it’s likely you’ll need to change lines).  The one exception to this probably Garde de Norde which, because of the size can be a little confusing. 

Each station has a number of exits so check in advance which one you need before leaving.  Small metro maps are available at each station, however, to make it easier before leaving the hotel use google maps to plan out the route and then take a screen shot.

Money

I arrived in Paris with 10 Euro in cash as I’d used all the Euro I’d bought with me paying for a hotel in Croatia which only took cash.  I survived quite easily with this amount of cash as pretty much everywhere takes credit cards.  The only things you are likely to need cash for as a tourist are public toilets and food carts which are dotted around the city selling crepes and gelato.

If you do need to withdraw cash, like any major city ATMs are almost everywhere.

Language

Most people I encountered spoke English and if not it’s possible to get by with a bit of imagination and sign language but it does help to learn a basic words.   

Museums 

You can buy a museum pass.  However, it’s not likely to be good value unless you plan on visiting more than 2 museums a day (which is likely to be too much for most people).  They are touted as being a great way of avoiding the queues but keep in mind that even if you order online you will still have to queue up at the first place you visit to pick up the pass or order sufficiently far in advance (and pay postage) to have it posted to you.

The Louvre

The Lourve is of course amazing and a must do in any visit to Paris.  There are two entrances, one near the pyramid and one closer to where you come out of the metro station.  Lonely Planet suggested using the one near the metro as lines are shorter, but on the day I visited at 10.30am the other queue was shorter. 

The only real queue / wait is for the security check.  Once inside tickets can be purchased using machines and the queues for these were very short.  It gets busier as the day goes on so it pays to get there early.

Be prepared that no matter when you go it will be crowded, especially around the most popular exhibits and that tourists will engage in behaviour that your’e (thankfully) unlikely to see elsewhere.  Selfie sticks have been banned but people will still get quite pushy in order to get that selfie / instagramable shot.

You could probably spend days in there looking at all the exhibits but by the end of 2-3 hours are likely be suffering from sensory overload and sick of the crowds so plan for a half day visit.  Grab a map a the information counter after you’ve bought your ticket and plan what you’d like to see.

Your ticket is valid all day so if you go late morning you can leave the museum at lunchtime and grab some lunch outside to give yourself a break. 

A good spot is Tuileries Garden. There are plenty of places to sit and eat and the walk in the sculpture garden is a good way to relax before heading back to the museum.

Musee d’Orsay

Another museum that you shouldn’t miss is the Musee d’Orsay which is in a former railway station.  I’ll go out on a limb and say I preferred it to the Louvre.  It’s easier to negotiate as it’s much smaller and while it’s crowded the visitors seem much more civilised than what you see at the Lourve.  Obviously it doesn’t have the as many exhibits as the Louvre but it does have a large sculpture collection and some very famous paintings including those by Renout and Monet.

Don’t miss the view of Paris through the railway clock.  

Musee Rodin and Notre Dame

The Musee Rodin is also worth a visit.  You can buy a combined pass for this and the Musee d’Orsay at either venue.  It is focused on the sculptures of Auguste Rodin and includes displays in the peaceful gardens as well as a restored hotel.

The two museums are a 15 minute walk from each other so it’s easy to see both in a morning or afternoon.  Notre Dame is also a few stations away and doesn’t require a long visit so it’s a good idea to combine the three.

Taking a break

I went to the d’Orsay early in the morning and then to the Rodin, however, if I was doing it again I’d probably go to Notre Dame, catch the metro to Rodin then walk to d’Orsay simply because there were 2 restaurants on the higher floors of the d’Orsay which I would have liked to try.

The decor in both is very modern and not what you’d expect from a museum.  If you only feel like something light there is also a casual counter service café on the ground floor.  There aren’t any food venues near the Rodin but there are plenty of restaurants in the streets nearby.

Other tourist sights

Eiffel Tower

If you plan on going up in the elevator to the Eiffel Tower book at least a few days in advance.  I tried to book the day before and only unpopular times of the day (eg 10pm) were left available.

Arch de Triomphe

It wouldn’t be a visit to Paris without seeing (and taking a photo of) the Arch de Triomphe.  It is well worth the 386 step climb to the terrace just to see the cars along the  Champs-Elysees. There are also great view of the Eiffel Tower so try to time your visit so you will be there on either the hour or ½ hour to see it lit up.

There is a passageway from the metro station to the tower entrance so you don’t have to attempt to negotiate the (extremely busy) roundabout.  The first part of the climb can seem a little daunting as it’s a spiral staircase (which if you are like me and scared of heights is not great), but there are places to stop and catch your breath.  Half way up there is also a large area with displays, a souvenir counter and bathrooms.  From there up it’s a normal (wider) staircase.

Arch de Defense

For a view of the modern part of Paris take the metro to the Arch de Defense. It’s worth it just for the view of the Arch alone.  If you feel like doing some shopping while in Paris there is a major shopping centre as you come out of the Metro which has all the chain brands and plenty of places to eat ranging from food court choices to restaurants.

There is also a large supermarket and another large store which sells everything from washing machines and fridges to handbags and groceries.  If you want to see where Parisians shop this is the place to be.

It’s where the Parisians who work in the office towers surrounding it go for lunch (and sit outside on the steps leading to the Arch) so it makes for great people watching. 

However the highlight is the trip to the top of the Arch (15Euro) which seems to be the best kept secret in Paris. Despite the amazing views there were only about 5  people up there when I went (as opposed to the hundreds who were on the Arch de Triomphe.

There is also an exhibition space at the top which on the day I went had am incredible photography exhibition.

There was also a sign on the terrace indicating they do after work drinks on the terrace after 5pm at which time the cost of the lift drops to 5Euro.  If I’d known about this sooner I definitely would have come to watch the sunset there. 

Take the time to get lost

No matter what else you do in Paris take the time to wander around (and get lost in) the streets. The city is full of beautiful historic buildings and away from the crowds the city is very peaceful.  It also gives you an insight into how Parisians actually live.

Food

Kitchens (and apartments in general) tend to be quite small in Paris.  If you rent an apartment is doesn’t come with a kitchen just a tap and a connection for the gas and so it’s up to the tenant to install anything they want. 

This when combined with the French view that you should specialise in something
and become good at it (for example at a baker one person will only make bread and another only pastries), means that they very rarely cook at home and if they do it’s very simple so eating out is a national pastime.

It also means that a Parisian will never buy their pastry and coffee from the same place, as someone who is a good baker should not be expected to know how to make coffee and vice versa.

Eating Out

There are a myriad of restaurants in Paris and where you choose to eat out probably depends on where you are staying and / or where you happen to be come meal time so it’s probably not worth giving you a list of places to try. 

However, there were two stand out places for me that I’d recommend if you can get there.  The first was Tomy and Co which I hesitate to confess was recommended by the Lonely Planet 2018 Paris Guide but I seem to be the only person who’s read it because I was the only non local there (the fact that everyone else was in business suits was somewhat of a giveaway).  The duck with figs was wonderful.

http://www.tomygousset.com/tomy-and-co

The other was a tiny hole in the wall wine bar called Wine Therapy (nearest metro station Cadet).  It has an extensive wine collection ad the owner was extremely friendly and knowledgeable about the wine.  Leave yourself in his hands to select some wine for you and team it with the meat and cheese plate which comes with (of course) a fresh baguette which he will pop out the kitchen to put together for you.

https://www.wine-therapy.fr/en/

One other thing which I regret not reading about until my last day was Bustronode. This is a glassed in bus that drives around the city past the major sights while serving a 4 course lunch or 6 course dinner.  It gets great reviews from people who’ve done it. 

Breakfast

Despite what you read, according to locals that I spoke to Parisians don’t actually start every day with something as decadent as a croissant, they are more likely to eat cereal or some grapefruit.  This was borne out by the fact that the only people I saw eating croissants were obvious tourists.  But they are so different (much better) than at home you have to try one at least once.

Lunch

If you don’t want something for lunch that is going to weigh you down during the afternoon’s sightseeing do like the locals and grab a ham and cheese baguette and eat it outdoors in the nearest park.

Cooking like a local

I did do a cooking class with La Cuisine Paris. I did the evening class which went from 4-8pm and included a trip to local stores to buy cheese, bread and other provisions, a cooking demonstration / lesson and dinner with wine. 

The food is pretty simple so don’t expect to become a Masterchef after but you might pick up some short cuts for example we learnt how to make a very tasty pear and cream dessert with minimal preparation and only a few ingredients and also a few tips to make cooking easier.

You will also learn about the laws surrounding the naming of shops (eg it cannot be called a bakery unless all of the bread is made on site and is fresh and never frozen) and how to recognise master craftsmen.  It’s also a great way to meet local producers and share cooking, a meal and some drinks with fellow travellers who can share tips on what to see and do in Paris.  At the end of the class you get recipes and a map with recommended places to buy local produce to take home.

Shopping

Galleries Lafayette

Even if you aren’t that keen on shopping a trip to Galleries Lafayette is worth it to see the stained glass roof.  There are a number of branches of the stores, make sure you head to the one on Housman as this is the most grand.  And don’t make the mistake I did in heading to the smaller store just around the corner next to Sephora (which is likely to be the first one you see when you come out of the metro) as this is solely geared at Chinese tourists.

Make sure you head to the terrace on the roof for great views across Paris. 

There is a separate gourmet store on the same street which has an amazing array of food and wine (and of course champagne) and is a great place to pick up gourmet gifts.  

Prices

Even after the VAT refund (see below) the prices of Parisian brand cosmetics such as Lancôme and Clarins wasn’t that much cheaper than home once you take into account the exchange rate.  If you do want to buy cosmetics it’s probably better to do it at the airport where all the major brands can be bought duty free (keep in mind the 100ml limit on liquids if you’ve got an onward connecting flight). The savings on other items such as handbags seems to be much higher.

VAT Refunds

If you spend more than 175 Euro in any shop during the same day you can obtain a (partial) refund of the 14% VAT. Just look for the signs in stores that say tax refund. If you elect to receive a refund in cash at the store you will receive 10%, if you are happy to wait and have the refund processed to your credit card in a few weeks you’ll receive 12%.

Either way you need to have your form processed at the airport before you depart. You will receive a form with a barcode on it from the store.  Avoid the (hideously long) queues at the Travelex refund counters at the airport and head instead to a PABLO kiosk where you simply scan the form.

As long as the screen indicates the paperwork has been processed you don’t need to post the actual form (you can however still do so at the boxes near the refund counters). There is a list of the PABLO kiosks at each of the terminals at Charles de Gaulle and Orly airports at the bottom of this page:

https://www.parisaeroport.fr/en/passengers/flight-preparation/currency-purchases-customs/tax-refund

Leaving the country

It takes much longer to get through the airport than what you’d be used to if you travel in Australia.  Even with priority check in which enabled me to skip the (very long) check-in queues it took me close on an hour to get through security and customs so leave yourself plenty of time. 

I can describe my first impression of Dubrovnik in 3 words “so many people!” After other places in Croatia I was not prepared for the sheer number of people.  I understand the city is considering limiting the number of tourists allowed in to the city and I can see why. 

I was glad that Dubrovnik was the last place in Croatia I visited as by then I had already fallen well in love with the country, not so sure I would have felt the same if I’d landed first in Dubrovnik.  Don’t get me wrong, it’s an absolutely amazing city with beautiful architecture and fabulous beaches, but I would recommend if you can starting in Zagreb and working your way down to Dubrovnik from there.  

Getting around

Atlas runs a bus from the airport to the main bus station near the port with a stop at the old town along the way. Buses leaving the airport are timed to meet incoming flights and from the city to meet all outgoing flights.  The timetable is posted online a few days in advance.  You can buy tickets online up to 24 hours beforehand (40KN) or from the main bus station (45KN).  The trip takes about 35 minutes. If you are arriving by ferry the port is around 500 metres from the bus station where you can get a bus into the old town or other part of the city.   

Most of the sites you’ll want to see are centred around the old city, a fairly compact area.  Buses run very regularly into here from other places around the city from very early in the morning until late at night so I’d probably recommend staying somewhere a little quieter and getting a bus into the old town for sightseeing and dinner.  Single bus tickets are 15KN if you buy them from the driver or 12KN if you buy them from a kiosk before boarding. 

If you are going to use buses more than a few times and you intend to walk the city walls it is probably worth getting a 1 Day Dubrovnik Card.  This gives you access to a number of museums in the city, the city walls and unlimited use of public transport for 24 hours.  These can be purchased online for 180KN.  You then take the email to the tourist office near the Pile gate (the main entrance to the old town) and they will give you the tickets.  They can be purchased directly at the tourist office, although they will strongly suggest that you use the free wifi to purchase online while you are there.

Old city

City Walls

If you do only one thing in Dubrovnik I’d suggest walking the city walls (cost 120KN if you haven’t purchased a Dubrovnik card).  The gates open at 8am.  Most of the guide books recommend doing the walk early in the morning or late in the afternoon as there is little or no shade on the walls and it can get very hot.  This is sensible advice but means that there is a big queue of people by the gates open. 

I’d suggest waiting until around 8.15am as then you’ll miss that first influx of people as the walls are quite narrow and it can get quite congested.  Allow about 1 ½ hours to do the walk allowing for photo stops.  You’ll want to take plenty as the views over the city and the water are amazing.

Other things to see in the old city

If you are interesting in photography and / or the conflict in Croatia, it’s worth visiting the Rector’s Palace which has a number of photographs showing the destruction in the early 1990s. It’s pretty shocking as most of the photos are taken around the old town and to see what the buildings looked like that you’ve just seen on the street really brings home how much work they’ve done to restore them.

Leave plenty of time to wander around the streets looking at some of the amazing architecture.  

Eating out in the old city

Most of the restaurants in the old town cater squarely for tourists and all have similar menus so it probably doesn’t matter a lot which one you choose.  If you feel like sampling some local wines I’d suggest a wine flight at D’vino.  The wines I tried here were definitely the best I’d tried in Croatia, the prices pretty reasonable and the staff are very knowledgeable about the wines. If you feel like staying for dinner they do platters of cheeses and local meats.

It’s a pretty small venue and it does get crowded so I’d suggest going there early in the evening (although they will do their best to find you a space, particularly if you are happy to share a table with others).  The place is run by a Queenslander and so has that relaxed Aussie vibe.

Sunset

If you are near the old town around sunset I’d recommend heading along the main street up the hill away from the old town, then take the first street you come to on the left. At the end of the street you’ll come to some stairs leading up to a park.  Cross the park for the most amazing views of the sunset.

Outside the old city

If you want to escape the crowds in the city for a few hours a boat trip to Lokrum is worthwhile.  Ferry boats leave every half an hour during high season from the old port and the trip takes about 15 minutes.  Tickets are 150KN return and can be purchased from the dock (they only take cash). 

The boat can be quite crowded but once you get to the island every one seems to disburse.  There are a number of cafes on the island.  I ate at the one at the back of the monastery.  The menu was pretty limited (think pizzas and burgers) but the setting more than made up for it. 

There are a number of spots across the island easy walking distance from the dock for swimming.  There is even a nudist beach if you feel like trying something different.  The beaches are described in the tourist guides as rocky.  This doesn’t mean the pebbles that you see elsewhere on the beaches instead of sand, it means the rock ledges effectively go right the way to the water.  Like most of the other beaches in Croatia, it’s worth having reef shoes to protect your feet.

Beaches

Like everywhere else in Croatia, the water around Dubrovnik is crystal clear and lovely for swimming.  The closes beach to town (just near the old port) is Banje beach.  It tends to get very crowded but can still be a pleasant way to spend a few hours once you’ve had your fill of scenery.

I also went to Bellevue beach based on a recommendation from Lonely Planet.  I had the place to myself which was absolutely lovely but you need to be somewhat determined to get there as the street the stairs runs off (Kotorska) doesn’t appear on any of the local maps.  Also worth knowing that if you take the Kotorska street stairs as suggested by Lonely Planet it takes you to a roped off swimming area not a beach as such so there isn’t anywhere to lay down your towel. 

If you do want to go I’d suggest getting to the Bellevue Hotel which is relatively easy to find and then asking the guard who is there to ensure no public access to the private hotel beach for directions.

Other places in Croatia

If you’d like to read about other places in Croatia or some general tips on travelling there see the following links:

Getting around

To see the islands you’ll need to either use a yacht or public ferries.  Being on-board a yacht gives you the opportunity to see smaller / uninhabited islands but on the down side unless you have a group of friends wanting to travel with you, you’ll be stuck in very close confines for a week or so with people you don’t know. 

Staying on the islands at night also means you have the chance to see them early in the morning (or late at night) when they are way less crowded (early mornings I often found myself the only one walking around).  For me this was a big plus so I was happy to go with ferries.   

Based on my experience, they are pretty reliable, leaving and arriving on schedule.  They are comfortable and relatively cheap.  All have small cafes if you are after a meal, drink or snack.

In the high season ferries tend to get very busy and while there are plenty of ferries to and from Split and Dubrovnik and the islands, between islands there may only be one ferry a day, so book as far in advance as you can.  

Which islands

There are a lot of islands and which ones you choose depends on how much time you have and whether you are looking for somewhere crowded and with a good nightlife or somewhere quieter.  I went to Bol, Hvar and Korcula.  In order of preference for me it went Korcula, Bol and Hvar quite a way behind those.  

Bol

Brac island is fairly large, but it’s likely you’ll spend your time in Bol.  The town itself is fairly small and very relaxed.  The ferry is only a very short walk from the centre of town.  

The main attraction of the island is Zlanti Rat, one of the most popular beaches in Croatia and one that adorns a large proportion of the tourism photos for Croatia.  It is about 20 minute walk along a tree lined promenade from Bol. 

Dotted along the promenade are stalls selling beach gear.  Its worth buying a pair of the reef shoes (50KN) as the pebbles on the beach and in the water can be very rough on your feet.

The beach is pretty crowded and the water full of swimmers and windsurfers.  There is also a small water park.  

Water taxis regularly travel from the beach back to Bol (10KN) if you don’t feel like walking in both directions.  They also provide some good photo opportunities.  

Hvar

Hvar is the most upmarket of the islands.  Luxury cruisers jostle for position along the main promenade.  It can get very crowded, with around 20,000 people in Hvar town daily in the high season.

Restaurants tend to be more expensive than in other parts of Croatia, but unfortunately this doesn’t translate to a higher quality of food.  Restaurants are aimed squarely at the tourist market. 

To get to a beach you’ll need to walk about 20 minutes from the port. The first beach you’ll come to is Pokonji Dol.  There is a restaurant there and sun lounges for hire.  It tends to get fairly crowded so if you prefer something a bit quieter keep walking further around the coast in the same direction and you’ll come to other beaches and secluded little bays.  On a cloudy day I was able to find a spot all to myself.

Korcula

Korcula was my favourite island. It has an incredibly relaxed vibe, an old town with amazing historic architecture and red roofed houses which reflect onto the water giving it a red glow in the morning light. 

I stayed in an airbnb apartment right in the centre of the old town, a few minutes walk from the port.  I’d highly recommend doing the same. You”ll be surrounded by restaurants and get to see the town how the locals do.

Eating

There are a lot of great restaurants in Korcula. If you dine at one of the high end ones the food won’t be cheap but the quality will match the prices.  One of the best is LD Restaurant:

http://ldrestaurant.com/

Unfortunately I got there a little too late in the evening for the degustation menu but the steak I had and the dessert were wonderful.  The degustation is better value than ordering individual meals and gives you the opportunity to try so much more, so I’d recommend choosing that and settling in for a few hours.  

Around Korcula

There are a number of wineries around 15 minutes outside Korcula at Lumbarda. The mountains provides an amazing background to the wineries (see the second picture below).  You can reach them by doing an organised tour or getting a public bus from the station near the port. If you are going to do a self-guided tour it is worth ringing ahead to the wineries to make sure they are open as on the day I visited one of them was closed as they were bottling the wine. 

Near the wineries is a sandy beach Vela Przina Beach which seems to get a lot of positive reviews on traveller sites.  Having been there, I think it’s probably because of the novelty of a beach with sand as opposed to pebbles in Croatia. 

If you are Australian you’ll probably be pretty disappointed by the beach (see the first picture below).  There is a cafe at the beach but the menu is restricted to the typical tourist offerings of burgers, pizzas etc. I ate there because it was the only place nearby and while the service was very friendly the food quality was pretty mediocre, reflective of the captive audience.

A far nicer beach and with more food options is at Lumbarda town itself.  The beach adjoins the port and while only small it has the pristine water you see everywhere in Croatia and a great view of the mountain.  

Buses run fairly frequently from there back into Korcula town.  However, a more scenic alternative to getting the bus both ways is getting a water taxi from the little port near the beach.  Check the timetable at the stop for running times.  

The cost of a one way trip is 80KN (or 200Kn for an all day ride ticket).  The trip takes about 20 minutes with a number of stops along the way which gives the opportunity to see some of the little islands.

Other places in Croatia

If you’d like to read my posts on other places in Croatia see the following links:

Split is a very vibrant place and full of cafes, restaurants and bars. It has some amazing architecture and great shopping.  It took me all of about 5 minutes to fall in love with the place, hopefully you’ll do the same. 

On the way there – Sibenik

If you are driving or getting the bus from Zadar, the trip to Split takes around 3½ hours so you might want to break up the journey.  If so good place to stop is Sibenik which is around the half way mark.

There is a very well preserved compact historic centre about 10 minutes walk from the bus stop which is worth a wander and there are a myriad of cafes scattered along the waterfront where you can get a meal.

I was a little concerned about waiting to get my onward bus ticket to Split until I was ready to leave Sibenik as the guidebooks indicated the queues can be long and the buses full but there were only a few people ahead of me in the queue and I was able to get on a bus leaving in 15 minutes with no problems.  

Where to stay

The heart of the city is Diocletian’s Palace, the walled fortress or old town where the majority of restaurants and shops are and it’s where you’ll want to stay. There are plenty of hotels to choose from but a better option, if you want some more personalised service and local knowledge is to stay in an airbnb apartment.  

The place I stayed in while fairly compact by Australian standards, was newly renovated and very clean.  It was an easy 5-10 minute walk into the main part of town but in a residential area so very quiet and peaceful at night.

What to see and do

Spend plenty of time wandering around the myriad of streets in Diocletian’s palace. It’s a world heritage site and has some incredible Roman architecture. 

Most of the sites are within a few blocks of the Riva, the waterfront promenade. It’s pretty easy to take them all in without needing a map or suggested route but if you do want a plan here is Lonely Planet’s walking tour:

https://www.lonelyplanet.com/croatia/split/in-location/self-guided-tours/a/nar/445851de-ad2e-49bf-85af-1e9102a024d5/358789

About 15 minutes up the hill from the Riva is Marjan Forest Park.  Even if you don’t want to do one of the extended trails, it’s worth a short walk through here for the scenic lookouts.

There is also a cafe just near the entrance to the park (Teraca Vidilica) which serves cheap local food and has a terrace with great views down across the city (the two photos below were taken from there).  It’s a good place to have breakfast and if you get there shortly after it opens you’ll likely have the place to yourself.

When you’ve had your fill of sightseeing, head to Bacvice beach, which is about 15 minutes walk from the centre of the Riva, past the ferry port.  It’s full of locals enjoying the crystal clear water.  There are change rooms and outdoor shower facilities as well as a cafe and bar.

If you’re looking for some souvenirs to take home there are a myriad of stalls selling them (as well as towels, hats and other beach gear) along the way to the beach near the main bus station. 

Eating and drinking

You’ll find plenty of bars and restaurants on the Riva and the few blocks nearby.  As you’d expect, the restaurants along the Riva tend to be more expensive and in most cases it’s the view you are paying for rather than the quality of the food.  If you do want to enjoy the view (and some serious people watching) I suggest having a drink at one of the places along the Riva and then going to dinner somewhere inside the walls.

Two places which I went to which I enjoyed were: Zinfadel which is owned by 2 Croatian-Australians.  It’s primarily a wine bar but serves a great pasta:

http://www.zinfandelfoodandwinebar.com/

The other was Brasserie on 7 which is especially good if you are getting sick of heavy food and feel like something a bit lighter:

https://www.brasserieon7.com/

Side trip – Trogir

Trogir is a little walled city sitting on its own island about 30 minutes bus ride from Split. A lot of the guide books recommend it as either a side trip from Split or a stop on the way there (all the buses from Zadar to Split stop here). 

For me it probably wasn’t worth the trip. The architecture is not that much different to what you see everywhere else in Croatia and the small streets were pretty crowded with tourists.  If you feel like a break from Split or a stop on the way there, then it’s probably worth going, but I wouldn’t go out of my way to do so.  

Other places in Croatia

If you’d like to read my posts about other places in Croatia see the following links::

Zadar is a wonderful little city, it was one of my favourite places in Croatia.  It’s full of historic buildings, good cafes and it’s not hugely crowded.

The best place to stay is in the historic walled old town as you’ll be right in the centre of things.  It’s about a 20 minute walk from the main bus station.  If you do want to stay there you’ll need to book a private room or apartment as there aren’t any hotels. 

The old town is very compact and its almost impossible to get lost.  Grab some gelato (there are places selling it on almost every corner) and spend some time wandering around the streets.

The old town is lined with restaurants with tables set up on the street.  Choose one and sit and people watch over a meal and a coffee or glass of wine. 

There is also a fresh produce market just off the main square which is open every day and is good for picking up supplies if you’re staying in apartment or have access to a kitchen.

Along the waterfront are two of the cities main attractions, worth a look just for the novelty value.  The first is the Sea Organ which is a series of pipes set under the water which produce haunting notes as the water rushes through them. 

The other (by the same designer) is the Sun Salutation.  It’s a series of brightly coloured solar panels which soak up the sun during the day to light up like a disco floor once the sun sets.  Go for a stroll early evening, watch the sun set into the water and then watch the panels light up.

The mainland is connected to the old town by a bridge.  If you walk across it you get a good view back over the city.  Water taxis also leave from near the port (look for the small sign).  For a few KN they will row you to the other side.

I was a little wary of this at first, thinking it was a bit of a tourist gimmick but some research indicated that local families have been providing this service for many years and the boat licences are handed down from father to son.  I also saw more locals than tourists using the service. 

Even though it isn’t a long walk I’d recommend doing it at least one way to support the local families and ensure the traditional survives.

If you’ve got more than a day in Zadar its worth taking a local ferry across to
Ugljan, the nearest island, a trip of about 25 minutes.  The boats leave from the port in the old town and you can book your tickets online.  On the island you’ll find beautiful beaches and restaurants dotted along the coast. 

You can also hire a bike and ride around the island.  If you want something more energetic there are hiking trails up into hills.

A trip to one of the local beaches near the old town is also a great way to see how the locals live.  The nearest one is on the promenade about 10 minutes walk south of the Land Gate entrance to the old city.  It has a salt water swimming pool and a tower from which local teenagers dive into the ocean. 

There is also a little café / bar there where you can grab a coffee or a glass of wine if you need it after the heat of the city.  It’s full of locals doing the same.

Other places in Croatia

If you’d like to read my posts about other places in Croatia  see the following links:

Plitvice lakes is one of the most beautiful and popular places to visit in Croatia attracting more than a million visitors every year.  While it is technically possible to see doing a day trip from Zagreb, I’d recommend leaving Zagreb early in the morning and then staying overnight at the lakes if possible. 

It can take 6-7 hours to see the whole thing and this will give you a chance to go back into the park the next morning if you haven’t been able to see everything or you just want to see it in the early morning light.

The trails aren’t all that signposted and it can get a little confusing trying to work out which direction to go to ensure you see all the lakes so it’s helpful to have a detailed map, particularly if you only have limited time.

The information office doesn’t give out free maps, all they are able to provide is an information brochure.  If you want a map you will have to purchase one at the souvenir shop so it’s worthwhile downloading one beforehand.

Getting to the park

Buses from Zagreb and onto Zadar are plentiful and can be easily booked online at http://wwww.croatiabuses.com

By bus it takes about 2 1/2 hours to get to the park from Zagreb and about 2 hours to get from the park to Zadar.  Coming from Zagreb buses will make 2 stops, one at each of the entrances to the park.

Getting around the park

The best way to see the park is to get a shuttle bus from Entrance 2 to Stop 3 which is at the top of park and then walk back down.  The alternative is to walk both directions (which will add around 2 hours to the visit) or to walk up the hill and get the bus back down. 

Getting the bus up is obviously the least time consuming and means less hills. Even getting the bus there are plenty of stairs you’ll need to go up and down so you need to have a least some level of fitness in order to be able to see the majority of the lakes.

About half way down you can get a boat (included in the admission price) across the biggest lake to join from the upper lakes to the lower.  Again you can walk this rather than getting the boat but the views from the boat are very scenic and it will save you quite a bit of time.

Food and drink

There are a few kiosks / cafes dotted around the park.  I had lunch at the self-service café near Entrance 2.  The food was OK and the prices fairly reasonable given the captive audience. It’s a good idea to carry some water with you as it can get quite hot and the nearest kiosk may be an hour or so away. 

Accommodation

Accommodation is limited in the park and so a lot of the guidebook suggest staying outside the park.  In the streets around the edges of the park almost every house has a sign up saying they offer accommodation. 

I stayed in a little hotel / bed and breakfast outside the park.  The walk into the park was a manageable 25 minutes, however, the majority of it was through a bush trail.

At the end of the day on dusk I wasn’t keen on walking through the trail, particularly as I hadn’t seen anyone on the trail during the day (not to mention reading that there are bears and wolves in the local area) so had to walk back along the main road. This took more than 30 minutes from where I exited the park and was somewhat harrowing as it is a main highway and there is no footpath so you have to hug the side of the road while cars wiz past you.

Therefore, if you are planning on getting to the park via bus rather than hiring a car, I’d strongly recommend staying at one of the hotels just near the entrance to the park.  These are quite popular so book as far in advance as possible.

If you are staying at a hotel outside the park, keep in mind that there isn’t really a village as such nearby so dinner in the hotel is probably the best option.  You’ll usually need to book this in advance when you check in.  

Other places in Croatia

If you’d like to read my posts about other places in Croatia see the following links: